E11 piyoda yurish yo'li - E11 hiking trail

Evropaning uzoq masofali piyoda yo'li E11

The E11 piyoda yurish yo'li 2560 km piyoda yurish iz Evropa orqali Gollandiya, Germaniya va Polsha. Bu biri o'n bitta piyoda yo'li Evropa Ramblers tashkiloti tomonidan muvofiqlashtirilgan (ERA), shuningdek (Germaniya) Europäische Wandervereinigung (EWV) va (frantsuzcha) Féderation Européenne de la Randonnée Pédestre (FERP).

Yo'lni belgilashdan qayta yo'naltirishgacha bo'lgan kundalik boshqaruvni Gollandiyaning milliy ramblers tashkiloti amalga oshiradi. Wandelnet, Gollandiyalik rambling klublarining quango va soyabon tashkiloti, ba'zi nemis mintaqaviy ramblers tashkilotlari va Polshaning milliy sayyohlik tashkiloti. PTTK. Niderlandiyada va g'arbiy Germaniyada E11 mintaqaviy piyodalar yo'llari bo'ylab yuradi (asosan boshqa transport vositalari uchun yaroqsiz); sharqida Harz tog'lar, E11 temir parda qulaganidan keyin ishlab chiqilgan va uni velosiped ham qoplashi mumkin; va Polshada E11 piyoda yoki egarda yurish mumkin bo'lgan mahalliy va mintaqaviy yo'llarning kichikroq va kattaroq qismlarini birlashtirgan narsadir.

Harz tog'laridan tashqari, E11 faqat tekis yoki aylanadigan erdan o'tadi. Ko'pgina qismlar o'rmon yoki hech bo'lmaganda savdo yog'och bilan qoplangan, ammo ochiq agrar va foydalanilmaydigan erlar mavjud. G'arbiy Germaniya, taxminan 12000 yil oldin so'nggi muzlik davrida vujudga kelgan bir qator past tepaliklarni kesib o'tgan. Harz tog'laridan keyin balandlik deyarli sezilmaydi. E11 tez-tez suv yo'llarini bir muncha vaqt kuzatib boradi, ularni parom yoki ko'prik bilan kesib o'tadi va ba'zida ko'llar o'rab olinishi kerak, masalan Masuriya Polshada. Keyingi va kesib o'tgan daryolar orasida IJssel Gollandiyada Elbe va Havel Germaniyada Oder yoki Odra Germaniya va Polsha chegarasida va Vistula (Visla) Polshada.

Tushuning

E11 1980 yilda birodarlashgan shaharlar o'rtasidagi xalqaro iz sifatida qisqa nemis yo'llaridan kelib chiqqan Haarlem Gollandiyada va Osnabruk Germaniyada va darhol Xarz tog'lariga cho'zilgan. Temir parda qulaganidan so'ng, E11 G'arbiy va ilgari Sharqiy, hozirgi Markaziy Evropaning integratsiyasini rag'batlantirishning ko'plab vositalaridan biriga aylandi. Shuning uchun u 1990-yillarda Berlingacha, keyin Polshaga qadar uzaytirildi. Atrofdagi tirbandlik kabi Amsterdam yoqimli marshrutni ushlab turishning iloji yo'q edi Haarlem, start ko'chirildi Scheveningen. Mintaqaviy xalqaro miqyosda, Euregio o'rtasidagi masofadan foydalanishni boshladi Deventer Gollandiyada va Osnabruk Germaniyada tijorat usulida, xalqaro chegaraning ikkala tomonidagi aholini bir-biriga yaqinlashtirish bo'yicha sa'y-harakatlarini qo'llab-quvvatlashga umid qilmoqda.

Yo'lda etnik va tarixiy farqlar sezilib turadi. Landshaftining ochiqligi G'arbiy Gollandiya (Gollandiya), Sharqqa ko'proq boy qishloq xo'jaligi, GDR davrida saqlanib qolgan yoki tiklangan yirik Prussiya mulklari va ularning cheksiz dalalarining diqqatga sazovor joylari va ko'p asrlar davomida Germaniya-Polsha mojarosi va Germaniya va Sovet ittifoqi tomonidan olib borilgan izlar - bularning barchasi E11 bo'ylab ko'rinadigan. Polshaning E11 qismi asosan 1918 yilgacha yoki hatto 1945 yilgacha nemis bo'lgan hududlarda joylashganligi bilan tasdiqlangan. E11 bo'ylab yurishingizdan ko'proq bahramand bo'lish uchun siz Vikipediyada E11 Evropaning uzoq masofa yo'li haqidagi entsiklopedik maqolani o'qishingiz mumkin. E11 bo'ylab joylashgan shaharchalarga yuzlab havolalarni topasiz.

Tayyorlaning

E11 uzoq masofaga yurish uchun me'yordan yuqori tayyorgarlikni talab qilmaydi (qarang Piyoda yurish va "Tayyorlash" bo'limi Appalachi izi). O'zingizning jismoniy holatingiz yaxshi ekanligiga ishonch hosil qiling va yaxshi jihozlarga ega bo'ling (arzon yuradigan etik yoki arzon ryukzakka murojaat qilmang) va yaxshi xaritalar to'plami. O'zingizni boqish uchun etarlicha oziq-ovqat va suv borligiga ishonch hosil qiling.

Polshaning ba'zi joylarida yotoqda yotadigan joylar orasidagi masofa (chodir o'rniga) 35 km gacha bo'lishi mumkin. Agar siz bunday masofalarga yurishni istamasangiz (yoki adashib qolsangiz ham), u holda chodir va uxlash sumkasini olib yuring. Yomg'irga (qishda esa qorga) tayyor bo'ling va agar siz ularni sayohat paytida yuvmoqchi bo'lsangiz, tez quriydigan kiyimlarni kiying.

Germaniya temir yo'l kompaniyasi veb-sayti yordamida JB E11-ni ikki yoki uch hafta davomida bitta ta'til sayohatida mumkin bo'lgan bo'limlarga bo'lish oson. Dan tashqari Gaaga, Yomon Bentxaym, Osnabruk, Gannover, Halle (Saale), Berlin, Frankfurt (Oder), Poznań, Yugurmoq va Olsztyn poezdda osongina qochib ketishi mumkin bo'lgan shaharlar. Hannover, Berlin va Poznan ham aviakompaniyalarni taklif qiladi.

E11 bo'limlarini aniqlaganingizdan so'ng, siz yurish uchun quyidagi xaritalarni sotib olishga e'tibor bering. Bunga bir necha hafta kerak bo'lsa, bir necha hafta kerak bo'ladi, chunki hamma do'konlar va noshirlar tezda javob berishmaydi.

Gollandiyada va G'arbiy Germaniyada siz odatda ingliz tilida muloqot qilsangiz tushunasiz, ammo sharqqa boradigan bo'lsangiz, nemis va polyak tillarida asosiy so'zlarni o'zingiz bilan olib boring. Agar siz ismlarni va boshqa so'zlarni gollandiyalik, nemischa, polyakcha talaffuz qilishni o'rgansangiz yordam beradi, chunki anglofonning ochiq talaffuzi o'z yo'lingizni topmoqchi bo'lganingizda yoki och qolganingizda jiddiy nogironlikdir.

Xavfsiz bo'ling

Zaharli qo'shimchalar

E11 bo'ylab eng katta xavf deyarli ko'rinmaydi: the shomil. Xavf bu kichik hayvonning o'zida emas, garchi uning chaqishi vaqti-vaqti bilan infektsiyani keltirib chiqarishi mumkin. Xavf parazitlarda bo'lishi mumkin. Shomil butun yo'l bo'ylab Lyme kasalligi bilan kasallanganligi (ba'zan yuqori foizgacha) ma'lum. Xarz tog'laridan sharqda ular Shomil bilan yuqadigan meningoensefalitni ham yuqtirishi mumkin. Siz Vikipediyadagi yoki boshqa joylardagi tegishli maqolalarni diqqat bilan o'qib chiqishingiz va Harz hududiga yoki undan sharqqa borishdan oldin Shomil bilan meningo-ensefalitga qarshi emlashingiz kerak. Lyma kasalligiga qarshi profilaktika mavjud emas, ammo erta tutilsa, uni antibiotiklar yordamida davolash mumkin.

Vaqti-vaqti bilan qushqo'nmas, cho'chqa, bo'ri to'plami yoki hatto suluk, yoki quturgan yuqumli sutemizuvchilarning chaqishi bilan uchrashishdan tashqari, bu yo'l mutlaqo xavfsizdir va hatto qishda ham etarli kiyingan holda yurish mumkin. va etarli miqdorda oziq-ovqat va (issiq) ichimliklar olib yuradi. Polshalik qish uzoq va sovuq! Agar siz chodirda yurmasangiz, Polshada ba'zan turar joy (va avtobus bekatlari!) Kamligi sababli 35 km masofani bosib o'tishingizga ishonch hosil qiling.

Chiqinglar

E11 ning boshlanishi Scheveningen dunyoning barcha burchaklaridan osongina erishiladi: ga uching Sxipol, aeroporti Amsterdam, temir yo'l stantsiyalaridan biri bo'lgan "Den Haag CS" ga tez-tez kelib turadigan poezdlardan biriga o'ting Gaagava 9-tramvay yo'li sizni "Gevers Deynootplein" maydonidagi Kurxausga olib boradi. Shuningdek, Belgiya yoki Frantsiyadan xalqaro poezdga borish mumkin Rotterdam va Den Haag CS uchun poezdlarni o'zgartiring. Germaniyadan xalqaro poezdlar Den Haag CS-ga poezdlarni almashtirish bilan bog'lanishni taklif qiladi Utrext yoki Amersfort. Angliyadan kelib, odatda tez parom bilan kelish mumkin edi Xarvich uchun Gollandiyalik kanca va keyin oq-qizil bilan belgilangan Evropa qirg'oq yo'liga boring E9 Scheveningenga.

qaerda E11 boshlanadi: Scheveningen-dagi Kurhaus

E11 boshlanishiga piyoda etib borishni istagan Buyuk Britaniya va Irlandiyadan boshlangan ramblerlar Harvichga yetib borishlariga ishonch hosil qilishlari kerak. Essex Way, ular paromni qaerdan olishlari kerak Gollandiyalik kanca va keyin yuqorida aytib o'tilganidek, E9-ga amal qiling. Xuddi shu E9 bilan Angliya janubidan, Frantsiyaning shimoli-g'arbiy qismidan va Belgiya qirg'og'idan Scheningningga etib borish mumkin. Holland Hook-ga piyoda etib borishning yana bir imkoniyati E2 (shuningdek, nomi bilan tanilgan GR 5) dan Yaxshi, Frantsiyaning Sharqiy va deyarli butun Belgiya.

Aytgancha, Kurxaus oldidagi Gevers Deynootplein 2500 km masofani bosib o'tishda mashinangizni to'xtatadigan joy emas. Agar siz to'xtash joyini topishga muvaffaq bo'lsangiz ham, soatiga bir necha evro to'lashingiz kerak bo'ladi.

Yurish

Siz o'qiyotgan maqoladan tashqari, E11 yo'nalishi aniq ingliz tilida hujjatlashtirilmagan. Agar siz golland va nemis tillarini yaxshi bilsangiz, Harz tog'lariga muammosiz etib borasiz, ammo Sharqiy Germaniya va Polshada hatto mahalliy tillarda (nemis va polyak) batafsil manbalarni topish qiyin. Ushbu maqola uchun biz Kassel, Praga, Poznan, Torun va Olsztin shaharlaridagi sayohat tashkilotlari ofislaridan nemis tilida chop etilmagan kitobni, varaqalarni va boshqa hujjatlarni, shuningdek mahalliy sotilgan topografik xaritalarni oldik va tarjima qildik. Ba'zi bo'limlar mahalliy ma'noda belgilangan; boshqalar esa yo'q.

52 ° 33′36 ″ N 13 ° 27′0 ″ E
E11 yurish yo'lining xaritasi(GPX-ni tahrirlash)


E11 Gollandiyada (355 km)

Niderlandiyada E11 xuddi shunday Marskramerpad (Savdogarlar yo'li) qaysi bog'laydi Scheveningen Germaniya shaharchasiga 368 kilometrdan oshiqroq masofada joylashgan Yomon Bentxaym. Oxirgi 13 km Germaniya hududida bo'lib, Gollandiya hududiga 355 km qoldiradi. Gollandiyalik uzoq masofali marshrutlar singari, Marskramerpad ham boshqaradi Wandelnet qayerda Wandelnet: "Marskramerpad", tahrir. Wandelnet, Amersfoort, 2009 yil, ISBN 9789071068782, juda foydali batafsil xaritalar bilan golland tilida qo'llanma sotib olish mumkin. Ushbu risola teskari tartibda ishlatilishi kerak, ya'ni Scheveningen ko'rsatilgan xarita yo'riqnomadagi so'nggi xarita. Bu nima uchun qo'llanmaning muqova matnida E11 ning Gollandiyalik qismi Germaniyaning Bad Bentxaym shahrida boshlanishi haqida noto'g'ri yozilganligini tushuntirishi mumkin.

Gollandiyalik piyoda yurish yo'llari, shu jumladan Marskramerpad, odatda mukammal tarzda belgilanadi. Biroq, yo'llar tez-tez o'zgarib turadi, ba'zida katta darajada va bu o'zgaradi faqat golland tilida tasvirlangan. 2012 yil dekabr oyida, 55 ta o'zgarish haqida so'z yuritildi.

Barcha o'zgarishlar kichik emas. Ulardan biri (Achterveld va Terschuur oralig'ida) qo'shimcha 8 km (5 mil) ni tashkil etadi, qo'llanmaning qopqog'ida ko'rsatilgan 360 km. Shu sababli risoladagi 4 ta xarita ("kaart 42", 42A, 43 va 44) to'liq o'zgartirilgan. Shuning uchun qo'llanmani buyurtma qilish va shuningdek, so'nggi o'zgarishlar uchun Marskramerpad maydonidagi belgilarni tekshirish tavsiya etiladi. Faqat sahifaning asosiy sarlavhasida to'rtta pastki qismni topasiz, ulardan chapda ikkinchisida marshrutning so'nggi marshrutining juda batafsil xaritasi ishlab chiqilgan (kattalashtirish funktsiyasidan foydalaning). Sahifaning boshqa joyida, o'ng tomonda siz tugmachani topasiz overnachtingsadressen. Ushbu tugmani bosish orqali sizga yo'l bo'ylab turar joylarning manzillari ko'rsatiladi.

Yuklab olish mumkin GPS izi Marskramerpadning so'nggi versiyasi. Bu shaxsiy nashrdir va Wandelnet tomonidan chiqarilmaydi yoki tekshirilmaydi. Ehtimol, u yo'riqnomadagi barcha o'zgarishlarni qamrab olmaydi. Mualliflik huquqi sababli, na GPS trekka, na marshrutizatsiyaning aniq tavsifi berilishi mumkin emas, ammo quyidagi xatboshilardagi havolalar yo'l bo'ylab joylashgan shaharlar haqida ko'proq ma'lumot olish imkoniyatini beradi.

Huis ten Bosch (qirolning uyi)

E11 ning Niderlandiya qismi kesib o'tadi 1 Scheveningen shahar markazi orqali 2 Gaaga, keyin Shimoliy-sharqqa burilib, sobiq Qirollik saroyining saroyidan o'tib ketadi 3 Huis ten Bosch, mulklari tarkibida davom etmoqda 4 Vassenaar, saroyidan o'tadi Qirol Villem-Aleksandr, ba'zi bir yaylovlar oralig'ida yurish uchun o'rmonli erdan chiqib, ning katta qishlog'iga kiradi 5 Vorshoten va Gollandiyaning ikkinchi yirik shahar markaziga, ya'ni 6 Leyden. Bu davom etmoqda 7 Leiderdorp va 8 Zoeterwoude-Rijndijk o'tmishdagi haqiqiy polderlar va botqoqli erlar orqali 9 Hoogmade va chiroyli orqali 10 Woubrugge ga 11 Rijnsaterwoude, dengiz sathidan 5 metr pastda yo'lning eng past nuqtasi. Bu davom etmoqda 12 Nyuvvin va 13 Zevenxoven ga 14 Noorden va shaharcha 15 Breukelen temir yo'l stantsiyasiga ega bo'lgan. Keyin 16 Maartensdijk, manzarasi botqoqli joylardan o'rmonli qumtepalarga aylanadi, bu orqali shahar 17 Amersfort ga erishildi. Bu erda siz Gaga va Leydenga, Osnabrück, Hannover va Berlin kabi shaharlarga qaytadigan shaharlararo poezdlarni topasiz va yo'ldan bir kunga ketmoqchi bo'lsangiz, Amsterdam. Amersfoortda esa bir-ikki kun dam olish uchun etarli narsa bor.

Nijerkdagi Appelda qo'ylar

Amersfortdan keyin va 18 Leusden, Marskramerpad / E11 erta o'rta asrlarda botqoqlardan tashkil topgan, ammo 1000 yil avvalgi kichik polderlarga aylangan keng nam vodiyga kiradi. Iz o'tadi 19 Axterveld, 20 Terschuur va 21 Appel deb nomlangan mintaqada Gelderse Vallei. Endi biz munitsipalitetdamiz Nijkerk, bu erda birinchi ko'chib kelganlar Nyu-York shahri kelgan (Kiliaen van Rensselaer Amsterdamlik savdogar edi, lekin uning oilasi Nijkerk va Putten o'rtasida hali ham mavjud bo'lgan "Rensselaer" fermer uyiga egalik qilar edi va u mahalliy aholini juda yaxshi ko'rar edi, chunki u ko'plab o'g'illarini hozirgi Manxettenga olib borgan) .

Bu maydon shuningdek, o'rmon va o'rmonlarning darvozasi hisoblanadi Veluve, ichida daraxtlar bilan qoplangan eng katta maydon Gollandiya. Maftunkor qishloqlar yoqadi 22 Stro va 23 Kootvayk, Radio Kootwijkning sobiq antenna minorasi va shaharchalari 24 Hoenderloo va 25 Bekbergen daraxtlar dengizidagi odamlarning diqqatga sazovor joylari. Ammo keyin manzaralar yana ochilib namlanadi, shu bilan birga 26 Klarenbek (temir yo'l stantsiyasi) va 27 Voorst o'tdi. Endi yo'l IJssel daryosidan bir muncha vaqt o'tib, avtomagistralli ikkita katta ko'prik ostidan o'tib, keyin eski shaharga parom bilan yo'l oldi. 28 Deventer (ma'lum bir sharoitda, masalan toshqin yoki daryodagi muz kabi, parom ketmaydi va IJsselni ikkinchi ko'prikdan o'tishingiz kerak bo'ladi).

Deventer IJssel bo'ylab ko'rinadi

Deventer mintaqadagi birinchi shaharcha Salland va viloyati Overijssel. Amersfoortdagi shaharlararo poezdlarda qatnashish imkoniyatidan tashqari (yuqoriga qarang), Deventer, Niderlandiyaning sharqiga borishdan oldin, siz oromgohda bo'lgan yana bir shahar bo'lishi mumkin. Germaniyaga borishdan oldin Deventerdan o'tgan sayohatchilar tashrif buyurganlaridan foyda ko'rishlari mumkin Wandelwinkel, sayyohlik va shunga o'xshash ochiq sport turlari haqidagi nashrlarda ixtisoslashgan kitob do'koni, bu erda barcha nemis xaritalari mavjud. Do'kon shaharning eng chiroyli qismida joylashgan Bergkerk (tog 'cherkovi; u kichik tepalikda qurilgan) bilan qarama-qarshi.

29 Diepenven, 30 Lettle, 31 Okkenbroek va 32 Espelo ochiq qishloq xo'jaligi erlari bilan o'ralgan kichik qishloqlar, ammo Marskramerpad / E11 keyinchalik shaharcha yaqinidagi bir qator tepaliklarga ko'tariladi. 33 Xolten (poezd bekati). Endi biz mintaqaga kiramiz Tvente. Tez orada yana keng maydonga ega bo'lgan ochiq vodiyga etib boriladi va yo'l qiziqarli shaharchaga qarab boradi Delden. Shaharni kesib o'tish o'rniga, yo'l mulkning go'zalligini afzal ko'radi 34 Twickel, keyin Shimoliy tomonga chek qo'yadi 35 Azelo va 36 Zenderen, ning eng yangi turar-joy maydonlariga tegishlidir 37 Borne va Hengelova o'tadi 38 Deurningen maftunkor yo'lda 39 Oldenzaal.

Oldenzaal, Palthehuis muzeyi

Oldenzaal temir yo'l stantsiyasi - bu uzoq masofali piyodalar yo'llarining chorrahasi, masalan Naoberpad yoki Noaberpad Gollandiya va Germaniya chegaralarida va turli xil golland yo'llari. E11 mintaqadagi turli aholi punktlaridan qochib, janubi-sharqda davom etadi va nihoyat kesib o'tadi 40 Germaniya chegarasi Gildehaus qishlog'idan bir oz oldin Yomon Bentxaym. Belgilanishlar nemis tuprog'iga kirishingiz bilanoq o'zgarib borishini unutmang: oq va qizil belgilar endi qora fonda oq T ga joy ajratadi. Marskramerpadning so'nggi 13 kilometri nemislardir.

EUREGIO nomi bilan Marskramerpadning sharqiy qismini va uning Germaniyada davom etishini (birgalikda Deventer - Bad Bentheim - Osnabrukni tashkil etadi) ekspluatatsiya qiladi. Handelsweg. Uning ikki tilli (golland, nemis) veb-sayti topomaplarni yuklab olish va turar joy va yuklarni tashish uchun joylarni taqdim etadi, bu E11 qismining uzunligi 229 km. Bu nom yana eski savdo-sotiqchilarga tegishli, ammo "Savdo yo'li" deb tarjima qilingan.

E11 Germaniyada (996 km)

Burg Bentxaym

Orqali Germaniyada birinchi 13 km 1 Gildexaus va 2 Yomon Bentxaym, hali ham Gollandiyalik Marskramerpad tarkibiga kiradi va ularni Gollandiyalik ko'rsatmaning 1 va 2-xaritalarida topish mumkin. Belgilanishlar ushbu bo'lim Toddenweg tarkibiga kirgan paytdan boshlab paydo bo'ldi: qora fonda oq bosh T. Bad-Bentxaym - bu Niderlandiyaning tekislik va botqoqlik joylari va vaqti-vaqti bilan qumtepalarga qarama-qarshi bo'lgan birinchi ajoyib balandlikdir. Yomon Bentxaymda qiziqarli qal'a va muzey va a bilan maftunkor kichkina shahar markazi mavjud kurort xayrlashadigan o'rmonda.

Germaniyaning qolgan qismida E11 ba'zi eski mintaqaviy yo'llarni kuzatib boradi, xususan Toddenweg, Vittekindsweg (Vidukind yo'li) va Wesergebirgswegning bir qismi. Wanderweg Harz - Niederlande qoldig'i (Hiking Trail Harz - Niderlandiya) va sobiq GDRda yangi tashkil etilgan marshrut Germaniyada E11ning qolgan qismini tashkil qiladi. Ushbu yo'l G'arbiy-Germaniyani kesib o'tib, G'arbdan Sharqqa o'tadigan tizmalar zanjiri bo'ylab o'tadi, so'ngra Xars tog'laridan balandlikka chiqmasdan o'tadi va nihoyat Brandenburg-Prussiya zodagonlari tomonidan asos solingan yirik agrar korxonalar haqida taassurot qoldiradi. 17-asr va GDR davrida odamlar egalik qilgan kompaniyalar shaklida mavjud bo'lib qoldi.

E11 odatda turli xil mintaqaviy belgilar bilan belgilanadi va kamdan-kam hollarda ularning Evropa izidan yurishi eslatiladi. Shuning uchun quyida keltirilgan ushbu yo'llarning nomlarini va ularning belgilarini bilish mutlaqo zarurdir. Ular daraxtlar va devorlarda ham, yo'llar ko'rsatilgan batafsil xaritalarda ham paydo bo'lganligi sababli, Polsha chegarasiga etib borish uchun nemis tilini bilish uchun qo'shimcha ma'lumot kerak emas. Ushbu xaritalar odatda faqat mahalliy kitob do'konlarida joylashgan, ammo ixtisoslashgan do'konlarda boshqa hududlarning xaritalari bo'lishi mumkin. Falk va ADAC yo'l atlaslarini 1: 200,000 masshtabida nashr etadilar, unda E11 juda yaxshi ko'rsatilgan. Atlasses butun Evropada sotiladi.

Toddenweg va Vittekindsweg (205 km)

E11 Germaniya federal davlatlari o'rtasidagi chegaradan keyin (Lander) ning Quyi Saksoniya va Shimoliy-Vestfaliya taxminan 200 km dan oshiqroq masofani tashkil etadi, bu ularning chegarasini kamida har kuni kesib o'tishini anglatadi. Bu Toddenweg uchun ham, Marskramerpadning tegishli davomini tashkil etuvchi Vittekindsweg uchun ham amal qiladi.

Sankt Antonius Bazilika Reyn

Toddenweg (mintaqaviy nom Peddlers Way deb tarjima qilinadi) ilgari Gollandiyaning Oldenzaal shahrida boshlangan, ammo hozir boshlandi Yomon BentxaymO'rta asr qal'asi (qisman muzey) va ishlaydigan kurort bilan nemis zodagonlarining qadimgi o'rni. Tödenweg o'tadi 3 Shuttorf, 4 Reyn, 5 Dreierwalde, 6 Ostenvalde, 7 Xopsten, 8 Recke, 9 Mettingen va 10 Westerkappeln ning markaziy stantsiyasida tugatish 11 Osnabruk. 3 ta xaritalar to'plamini EUREGIO-dan yuklab olish yoki buyurtma qilish mumkin. Veb-saytdan boshqa xaritani olish mumkin Spazieren.de ("T - Töddenweg" ni bosing (Yuklab olish, GIF-Datei, arxiviert / ZIP, 167 KB)) Bad Bentxaymdan Osnabrukgacha bo'lgan Toddenweg 110 km o'lchamda. T oq harf bilan stikerlar bilan belgilangan. qora kvadrat yoki daraxtlar va devorlarga bo'yalgan oddiy T yordamida GPS trekni yuklab olish mumkin Bu yerga. U atrofdagi agrar erdan biroz baland ko'tarilgan kruizlar.

Osnabrukning yodgorlik temir yo'l stantsiyasidan keyingi davomi deyiladi Vidukind yo'li (Wittekindsweg), Buyuk Saksoniyani Buyuk Karl tomonidan bosib olinishiga qarshilik ko'rsatgan va keyinchalik Charlmen boshchiligidagi Saksoniyaning birinchi gersogi bo'lgan 8-asr boshlig'i nomi bilan atalgan. Vittekindsweg, 95 km uzunlikda, uning tepasida yuradi Wiehengebirge, o'tish 12 Rul, Mühlenortyaqinda Engter, 13 Vehrte, 14 Ostercappeln, 15 Wehrendorf, 16 Barxauzen, 17 Oberbauerschaft va 18 Bergkirxen ga 19 Porta Vestfalika. Porta-Vestfalika shahriga shov-shuvli tushishdan oldin, bu yo'l 1871 yildan Germaniya imperatori 1888 yilda vafotigacha bo'lgan Vilgelm I sharafiga bag'ishlangan ulkan yodgorlikdan o'tadi. Bino shunday joylashtirilganki, bugungi kunda ham, hamma Wiehengebirge nihoyasiga etadigan qiyalikda poezdda yoki avtoulovda ko'ring.

Porta Vestfalika

Wittekindsweg Osnabrukdan Mühlenortgacha bo'lgan qora fonda (yoki daraxtlar va devorlarda) oq xoch bilan belgilanadi, ammo keyinchalik Frantsiya va BeNeLux mamlakatlarini eslatuvchi oq va qizil chiziqlar bilan. Osnabrukdan Vittekindsberggacha, shaharning janubi Minden, shuningdek, topilgan Kompass xaritasi 750 (Evropadagi har qanday yaxshi kitob do'konida mavjud). Tödenweg ham, Wittekindsweg ham mintaqaning turizm va boshqa tijorat manfaatlarini targ'ib qiluvchi kvango bo'lgan Wiehengebirgsverband Weser-Ems boshqaruvida. Ular buyurtma berish mumkin bo'lgan izni aks ettiruvchi batafsil xaritalarni nashr etadilar va sotadilar veb-sayt. Nemis tilini o'qiganlar uchun marshrutning batafsil tavsifi berilgan risolasi foydali bo'lishi mumkin. Yo'lning boshqa xaritasini yuklab olish mumkin Spazieren.de va "Wittekindsweg (Yuklab olish, GIF-Datei, arxiviert / ZIP, 209 KB)" tugmasini bosing. Yo'l haqida ba'zi batafsil ma'lumotlar nemis tilida berilgan Wanderbares-Deutschland.de (sahifaning chap ustunidagi yo'llar ro'yxatida Wittekindsweg-ni bosing). GPS trekni yuklab olish mumkin Wanderkompass.

Sharqiy Quyi Saksoniya va Xarz tog'lari (186 km)

Porta Westfalica yaqinidagi Kaiser Wilhelm I yodgorligi

Keyin Porta Vestfalika E11 Quyi Saksoniyada deyarli 200 km masofada qoladi. U Wesergebirgsweg mintaqaviy piyoda yurish yo'lidan 50 km yurib, keyingi tizmaning tepasida, ya'ni Vezer tog'lari O'rta asr shaharchasiga Hameln. E11 balandligi 440 metrga etadi 20 Hohe Egge tog'i, nafas oladigan toshlar va qadimiy o'rmonlar orasida. Keyin u atrofdagi ochilishlarni kesib o'tadi 21 Hameln (bilan birikmalar E1) va 22 Coppenbrüge, Hamel va Vezer daryolari yaqinida. Ikkinchi shaharcha, E11 keyingi tog'ga, ya'ni toqqa chiqmasdan oldin xarid qilish uchun so'nggi imkoniyatni taqdim etadi Ith va butun uzunligi bo'ylab tepasida qoladi.

O'tish 23 Eshershauzen, o'rta asr 24 Alfeld, Helleberg ("Jahannam tog'i") va 25 Yomon Gandersxaym, E11 ga etadi Harz tog'lari shaharchasida 26 Ko'rilgan. Garchi tog 'tizmasi 1000 metr va undan yuqori cho'qqilarni taklif etadi (mashhur Broken 1100 metrdan yuqori), E11 500 metrdan baland ko'tarilmaydi va asosan shimoliy yon bag'irlarning pastki qismlarida harakat qiladi. U Germaniyaning dastlabki tarixidan mashhur bo'lgan bir nechta shaharchalarni kesib o'tadi: 27 Goslar (bilan birikmalar E6) va 28 Yomon Xarzburg. Ilgari kichik Eker daryosi 29 Germaniya-Germaniya chegarasi va endi federal shtatlarni ajratib turadi Quyi Saksoniya va Saksoniya-Anhalt.

Yo'lning ushbu qismi haqida batafsil ma'lumotni nemis tilidagi nashrdan topishingiz mumkin, E11Mittel - Der E11 durch das Norddeutsche Mittelgebirge (2010); Fernwege.de; ISBN 9783937304809 (ushbu qo'llanmada Porta-Vestfalitadan shahargacha bo'lgan E11 tasvirlangan Halle Saksoniya-Anhaltdagi an der Saale), nemis veb-saytida FernwegeE11 va shunga o'xshash bir nechta batafsil topografik xaritalarda Kompass 450. E11 daraxtlar va devorlarda oq qiyshiq xoch bilan (X), vaqti-vaqti bilan qora kvadratga va / yoki boshqa yo'llar bilan chalkashmaslik uchun N harfi bilan belgilanadi. N yo'lning eski nomini anglatadi, Gollandiya - Xarz tog'lari. Shunga qaramay, "X11" belgilari, shuningdek, oq xoch bilan E11 ga parallel bo'lgan boshqa yo'lni nazarda tutadi.

Xarz tog'lari va Saksoniya-Anhalt (244 km)

Xarz tog'larida Teufelsmauer ("Iblislar devori")

Nemislar birlashgandan keyingi yillarda Harz klubi Xarz tog'larining sharqiy qismida joylashgan sayr qilish yo'llari tarmog'ini tiklash uchun ko'p harakatlarni amalga oshirdi. Bu E11ni Saksoniya-Anhalt federal shtati orqali butunlay yangi kengayishiga olib keldi. U o'tadi 30 Ilsenburg, 31 Vernigerode, 32 Thale, 33 Gernrode va 34 Ballenstedt, nihoyat Harz tog'lari (bu erda tog'lar emas, balki tepaliklar) tepaligidan o'tib ketadi 35 Pansfelde va 36 Wipprava etadi 37 Lyuterstadt Eisleben. Keyingi shahar cherkov islohotchisi Martin Lyuter tug'ilgan shaharcha sifatida tanilgan va uning ismini rasmiy nomi bilan yuritgan.

Uzoq rejalashtirilgan, ammo faqat 2007 yilda amalga oshirilgan qo'shimcha kengayish E11-ni tog'-kon sanoati va yirik qishloq xo'jaligi zonasi orqali qishloqqa olib boradi 38 Xnnstedt va Quyi Saale tabiiy bog'i (Naturpark Unteres Saaletal) E11 daromadlari 39 Shoxvits va 40 Dölau katta Halle shahriga. Hallega qadar bo'lgan qism oldingi qismlar bilan bir xil tarzda belgilanadi, ya'ni oq xoch (X), ehtimol qora kvadrat ustida.

Ajoyib shahar 41 Halle Ikkinchi Jahon urushidan deyarli zarar ko'rmagan va Jugendstil, Bauhaus va boshqa me'morchilik uslublarini aks ettiruvchi ko'plab binolarni saqlab qolgan. Xalledan keyin E11 yolg'iz tepalikka ko'tariladi 42 Petersberg va tekis, ochiq er orqali davom etadi. Manzara GDRdagi va shuningdek, 18-19 asrlarda Brandenburg-Prussiya dvoryanlarining yirik agrar korxonalarini aks ettiradi. E11 paslari 43 Görzig va 44 Quellendorf shahariga etib borish 45 Dessau, Bauhausning beshigi. Keyin E11 hayajonli tabiatga tushadi O'rta Elbaning biosfera qo'riqxonasi. U o'tadi 46 Vokerod, 47 Vorlitz va 48 Kosvig va atrofdagi o'rmonga kiradi 49 Senst. Ushbu qishloqdan ko'p o'tmay, E11 federal shtat bilan chegaraga etadi Brandenburg. Xalledan so'ng, E11 sobiq kommunistik Evropada an'anaviy tizimga muvofiq belgilanadi: uchta gorizontal chiziq, oq, ko'k va oq, ular oq kvadratdagi ko'k chiziq sifatida ham talqin qilinishi mumkin.

Saksoniya-Anhaltda E11 Kompass tomonidan nashr etilgan xaritalarda, xususan 450 yoki 452 va 453 (Harz tog'lari Eislebengacha), 457 (Eisleben - Halle), 458 (Halle Dessauga) va 456 yoki 747 (Dessaudan keyin). Shu bilan bir qatorda, topografik xaritalarni mahalliy darajada sotib olish mumkin. Veb-saytida nemis tilidagi foydali ma'lumotlarni topish mumkin Fernwege.de "PDF Touren-ni yuklab olish", "Wander-Shop" va "Fernwanderwege in Deutschland" -ni bosish orqali (Halle va Coswig o'rtasidagi bo'lim hali ham yo'qolgan).

Brandenburg va Berlin (348 km)

E11 Brandenburg yaqiniga kiradi 50 Gross-Marzehn va chiroyli shaharchaga qadar bepoyon yirik qishloq xo'jaligi erlarini kesib o'tadi 51 Belzig. Yo'l 19-asrda Brandenburg-Prussiya zodagonlarining mulki bo'lgan va atrofida yashil zona bo'lib xizmat qilgan keng ovchilik o'rmonlari orqali davom etmoqda. Berlin va Potsdam 20-asrda. Potsdamdan taxminan 20 km oldin, E11 a birinchisiga etib boradi 52 ko'llar ballari ko'plab sobiq GDR dam olish maskanlari tomonidan kattalashtirilgan, ularning ba'zilari hali ham to'xtamayapti.

Potsdam va Berlin o'rtasida Glienicker Brücke (Glienicke ko'prigi)

Nuqtaning janubi 53 Potsdam yo'l shimoliy-janubiy yo'nalishda harakatlanadigan E10 ga to'g'ri keladi. Bu Potsdam Markaziy temir yo'l stantsiyasidan 200 metr janubda katta tosh bilan belgilanadi. E11 juda oz vaqt talab etadi, chunki u qiziqarli tarixiy shahar markazi va sobiq knyazlarning hashamatli saroylaridan qochadi. BrandenburgPrussiya qirollari va Germaniya imperatorlari bo'lgan. E11 avvalgi chegaradagi eng issiq joylardan biriga yashirincha kiradi Berlin, 54 Klayn Glienki. Ushbu kichik aholi punkti sovuq suv bilan o'ralgan va ikkala qudratli davlat tomonidan ayg'oqchilarga to'la edi. Glienicke ko'prigi 1989 yilda temir pardaning ochilishi va keyinchalik qulashiga guvoh bo'ldi.

Oldingi G'arbiy-Berlin orqali o'tadigan marshrut oldin o'rmonlarning keng maydoniga ega 55 Olimpiya stadioni yilda Sharlottenburg ga erishildi. Berlinning bu qismi tarixiy qasrlarga, shu jumladan Prussiya qirollarining qishki qarorgohiga boy, ular bu erda bir nechta muzeylar ham tashkil etgan. Berlinning mashhur muzeylarining aksariyati shu erda joylashgan Mitte (Berlinning tarixiy markazi, shuningdek GDR-da Sharqiy-Berlinning markazi. E11 bu erdan o'tmaydi, lekin Spree daryosi va G'arbiy Berlin bo'ylab eski izdan yuradi. 56 Landver kanaliShunday qilib, sobiq Sharqiy Berlin va hozirgi Berlinning eng qiziqarli qismlarini yo'qotib qo'ydi.

Tumani 57 Köpenik bu erda E11 sobiq Sharqiy-Berlin hududiga kiradi. E11 Spree daryosi va bir nechta ko'ngilochar bog'lar o'rtasida osoyishta yurib, keyin parom bilan daryoni kesib o'tib, shahar uylari va bungalovlarning keng maydoniga boradi. 58 Fridrixshagen. Bu erda E11 urbanizatsiyani orqada qoldirib, shimol tomon yo'lning eng chiroyli qismlaridan biriga, kichik vodiysiga yo'l oladi. 59 daryo Erpe yoki Neuenhagener Mühlenfließ. Sharqqa burilib, iz endi o'tadi 60 Noyengagen va Märkische Schweiz tabiat bog'i ga 61 Gusov shahri yaqinida 62 Seelow. Rambler bu erdan Lebus tepaligidan Jacobsdorfgacha g'arbiy yo'lni tanlashi mumkin, yoki Sharq tomon, qishloqdan keyin. 63 Reitwein, janub tomon Oder daryosidan keyin. Ikkala variant ham bir-biriga to'g'ri keladi 64 Frankfurt (Oder), bu erda Germaniyaning E11 qismi Oder orqali Polshaga boradigan ko'prikda tugaydi.

Frankfurt (Oder), Frankfurt (Oder) va Slubitsa shahar ko'prigidan Oder / Odra daryosining ko'rinishi.

Brandenburg va Berlinda E11 markasi turli yo'llar bilan belgilanadi. Saksoniya-Anhaltdagi Coswigdan keladigan oq-ko'k-oq chiziqlar Luiziyaga qadar davom etadi. Oq-qizil-oq belgilar kichik Vörlitz qishlog'iga (Brandenburg; Saksoniya-Anhaltdagi shu shaharcha emas) va oq-ko'k-oq chiziqlar ramblerni Potsdamga olib keladi. Potsdamning monumental markaziy temir yo'l stantsiyasi oldida (Potsdam Hauptbahnhof) E11 E10, Shimoliy-Janubga yugurib, shuningdek, oq-ko'k-oq rang bilan belgilangan. Sariq X ramblerni sobiq G'arbiy Berlin orqali Kopenikning boshiga olib boradi, u yerdan oq-sariq-oq chiziqlar shu tumani va Fridrixshagen tumanidan o'tadi. Oq-qizil-oq chiziqlar ortidan sayohatchini olib keladi Noyardenberg. oq-ko'k-oq chiziqlar Frankfurtga (Oder) sayohatga hamroh bo'ladi.

E11 ning ushbu qismi nemis tilidagi kitobda tasvirlangan Brandenburg, Unterwegs auf den Europäischen Fernwanderwegen E10 und E11 (Brandenburg federal shtatida E10 va E11 tavsiflari), Trescher Verlag (2003). ISBN 9783897940338. Kechasi marshrutda turar joy taklif qiladigan 150 ta manzil ro'yxati, shuningdek nemis tilida ixtisoslashgan kitob do'konlarida joylashgan Übernachtungsverzeichnis zum europäischen Fernwanderweg E11 BrandenburgdaISBN 9783937304410. Ba'zi foydali ma'lumotlar bu erda joylashgan Fernwege.de ammo izni kuzatib borish uchun bu etarli emas. A ni olib yurish qat'iyan tavsiya etiladi Berlin shahar rejasi Potsdamdan Noyengagenga yurish paytida. Mahalliy ravishda sotib olingan topografik xaritalar Brandenburgdagi izning qolgan qismini bajaradi.

Polshadagi E11 (1209 km)

Siz daraxt kesuvchi bilan E11 bo'ylab uchrashasiz
Vronki shahridagi Frantsisk monastiri; Polsha monastirlari ziyoratchilarga va boshqa ramblerslarga yotoq taklif qilishadi

Polshada E11 sharqda, so'ngra shimoliy-sharqda shaharlarni bosib o'tishda davom etmoqda Międzychód, Poznań, Gniezno, Yugurmoq, Brodnika, Ilava, Olsztyn va Goldap yilda Ogrodniki shaharchasiga Seyni County Litva chegara. Polshaning 30% o'rmon bilan qoplanganligi sababli, E11 ning katta qismi daraxtlar (asosan tijorat usulida ekilgan va ekspluatatsiya qilinadigan) keng ko'llar va ko'llar va qumtepalar kabi yovvoyi tabiatning turli shakllari bo'ylab o'tishini ajablantirmaydi. . Poznan yaqinida, rambler bir necha kun davomida ba'zi qadimiy shahar va binolar tomonidan yoqimli bo'lgan agrar va yarim sanoat erlarni aylanib yuradi.

Polshada aholisi juda kam bo'lganligi sababli, Sharqqa borishda, 25 dan 35 km gacha bo'lgan kunlik masofalarga chodirsiz ramblerlar tayyor bo'lishi kerak. Marshrut quyida batafsil ko'rsatilgan joyda, bo'lim boshidan masofa shaharcha nomiga qo'shilib, shahar qandaydir turar joyni taklif qilayotganligini ko'rsatadi. Masalan, "Międzyrzecz - Poznńn-Kiekrz" bo'limidagi "Wronki (88 km)", Mędzyrzeczdan 88 km keyin, Wronki shahrida yotoqxona, mehmonxona yoki boshqa turar joy mavjudligini anglatadi.

Polshaning biron bir mintaqaviy izi umuman E11ning bir qismi emas. Yo'l mavjud bo'lgan yo'ldan ikkinchisiga sakrab chiqadi, odatda bunday yo'lni qisqa masofada bosib o'tgandan so'ng. Bundan tashqari, E11 bu sohada ko'rsatilmagan, faqat har 100 kmda bitta belgini qo'shishi mumkin bo'lgan istisnolardan tashqari. Biroq, mintaqaviy yo'llar belgilanadi, ammo har doim ham rambler E11-ni xaritasiz topishga imkon beradigan darajada etarli emas. Belgilash tizimi har doim keng tarqalgan Markaziy Evropa, ya'ni oq rangli oq rangga ega, ammo bir izdan ikkinchisiga juda ko'p o'zgarishlar tufayli rang juda farq qiladi. Shuning uchun quyida keltirilgan har bir qismning marshrutlash tafsilotlarida belgilarning rangi ko'rsatilgan. Masalan, "Drzecin (sariq)" degani, Dretsinda E11 oq kvadrat ustida sariq chiziqlar bilan belgilangan izdan yurishni boshlaydi.

Some topographical maps show sections of E11, but others may only show the trails that form the basis for it. It is therefore necessary to fall back on documents describing which sections of which trails form E11 together. Unfortunately, these are hardly accessible or incomplete:

PTTK develops and maintains trails

1. A German book summarizing the routing of all eleven European long distance paths. Hans Jürgen Gorges: Auf Tour in Europa, ed. Kompass & European Ramblers Association (1999/2000 and 2002). This is an (even second-hand) completely sold-out summary of the E-trails, getting obsolete due to changes in the routings.

2. A series of Polish topographical maps (with legend in English) showing hiking trails, but not always indicating which of these belong to E11. "Poltopo" Oddział Topograficny Sztabu Gen. WP: Mapa Topograficzna Polski §, where § stands for the number of the map, i.e. "N-33-125/126" for the first map after Frankfurt (Oder). These and some more detailed maps may be ordered from abroad at the specialized map shop Grupa.18[ilgari o'lik havola] in Poznań.

3. Later changes in the Polish routing can be found (in Polish) in the offices of PTTK, the Polish tourist organization. and (in English) at the secretariat of the European Ramblers Association in Prague.

4. You can't find your way with the help of German maps, however detailed they are. These maps tend to show the German names of townships as they were in use until 1945, but these names are nowhere to be found in the area. The German inhabitants of old were forcibly resettled in Germany and are no longer there, whereas the present Polish inhabitants are mostly the children of those who were equally forcefully resettled from areas that once belonged to Poland, but are now parts of Belarus va Ukraine, some thousand kilometers to the east. Thus none of the locals is able to trace an old German name to a modern Polish settlement.

Oder bridge - Międzyrzecz (141 km)

War monument of the Soviet Red Army in Kęszyca Leśna
The baroque monastery of Paradyz Abbey

Once the bridge across the River Oder (and the now open border between Germany and Poland) has been passed, E11 (here unmarked) goes straight through the town center of 1 Słubice, until 1945 a suburban part of Frankfurt (Oder) under the name of Dammvorstadt, but a separate township in a different country since then. Going straight all the time for two kilometers, the rambler reaches a small parcel of forest. Here E11 curbs left toward the little village of Drzecin, where the first white-yellow-white markings are found. These lead in a few days to Lubniewice, where the markings change to white-blue-white. Up to here, map N-33-125/126 suffices, although it does not mention E11. Map N-33-127/128 has a new edition that shows the precise course of E11 from Trzebów. The detailed routing is: Oder bridge between Frankfurt (Oder) and Słubice - town center of Słubice (no marking) - 2 Drzecin (yellow) - 3 Stare Biskupice - 4 Sułów - 5 Drzeńsko - 6 Lubiechnia Wielka - 7 Lubiechnia Mała - 8 Ośno Lubuskie (34 km) - 9 Trzebów - 10 Jarnatów - 11 Lubniewice (67 km).

The blue trail passes Kursko and leads to Kęszyca Leśna, a former army base of the SovietRed Army that now tries to build up a second life as an industrial and tourist settlement. The former staff quarters now function as a hotel, where the hiker may rest as a Soviet general. A little further lies Kęszyca, where a German system of underground corridors and strongholds can be visited. This dates back to the 1920s, when democratic Germany (the Weimar Republic) felt the need to defend itself against a possible attack from the east. In the 1930s already, this defense system started to deteriorate as dictator Adolf Hitler was more interested in attacking himself to the east and saw no need for a defense system that, from his point of view, lay somewhere inland in his dreamed Greater Germany. The spot offers now the unique possibility of following E11 underground.

(blue) - 12 Osiecko - 13 Bledzew (78 km) - 14 Chycina - 15 Gorzyca - 16 Kursko (93 km) - 17 Kęszyca Leśna (100 km) - 18 Kęszyca - 19 Rez. Nietoperek - between Kaława and Wysoka - 20 Gościkowo, with Paradyż abbey (112 km) (green) - 21 Szumiąca - 22 Bobowicko (141 km). The blue trail carries E11 until the township of Gościkowo, where the Paradyż Abbey sometimes hosts tired ramblers overnight, provided they accept the sober rules of monk life. After Gościkowo, white-green-white marks lead through some 30 km of forest to Bobowicko.

Between Kursko and Bobowicko, E11 follows a large bow around the city of Międzyrzecz. The city has bus and train connections with various townships on E11 and may be used as a pleasant station for two or three days of walking without much luggage. Bodowice is at walking distance (2 km) from the train and bus stations of Międzyrzecz. Due to its train connections to Poznań and Germany, Międzyrzecz is also a good place to end or start a tour of one or more weeks along E11. The city has an interesting regional museum and a lively score of restaurants and bars.

Międzyrzecz - Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km)

The castle of Międzyrzecz

From Bobowicko, the green trail continues till after Stołuń, where E11 begins to follow white-blue-white to Villa Toscana, a lonely hotel between the villages of Nowe Gorzycko and Stare Gorzycko. The blue trail and E11 continue to the twin cities of Międzychód va Bielsko, which offer many opportunities for shopping (fashion, antiquities, arts) and staying overnight. E11 now enters the area that, for a long time, was No Man's Land and War Front Zone between Prussia (later the German Empire) and Poland. Many monuments remind of this tragedy, but the explanatory texts are in Polish only. In Bukowar the markings change to white-red-white and in Obrzycko to white-green-white. Słopanowo marks the end of the forests; E11 now enters the agrarian open space of the province of Greater Poland around the city of Poznań. There are no marks after Szamotuły. The village of Kiekrz is where E11 reaches Poznań.

Maps N-33-127/128, N-33-129/130 and N-33-117/118 do not mention E11, but show the underlined trails in the right color until Szamotuły. The precise routing of E11 is: Bobowicko (green) - 23 Żółwin - 24 Kuligowo - 25 Stołuń - 1 km before Rybakówko (blue) - Villa Toscania (27 km) - 26 Stare Gorzycko - 27 Słodewy Młyn - 28 Międzychód (33 km) - 29 Bielsko (36 km) - 30 Ławicá - 31 Góra - 32 Sieraków (53 km) - 33 Piaski - 34 Bucharzewo - 35 Bukowar (red) - 36 Pustelnia - 37 Chojno - 38 Chojno Błota - 39 Mokrz - 40 Wronki (88 km) - 41 Obrzycko (99 km) (green) - 42 Słopanowo - 43 Kobylniki - 44 Twardowo - 45 Szczuczyn - 46 Szamotuły (113 km) (no marking) - 47 Kępa - 48 Baborówko - 49 Pamiątkowo - 50 Krzyszkowo - 51 Rokietnica - 52 Starzyny - 53 Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km).

E11 through Poznań (33 km)

Rynek, the central market square in Poznan with historical merchant houses

From behind the railway station of Kiekrz, a white-green-white marked trail leads through a vast city park to 54 Golęcin, from where a few black or blue marks guide the rambler to the tramway stop of 55 Sołacz va 56 Nad Wierzbakiem. After this point, E11 is not defined, but the obvious choice of a rambler interested in one of the oldest, biggest and most beautiful town centers along E11 is to turn right (south) toward 57 Rynek Jezycki. Here begins The Royal-Imperial Route in Poznań which, in a more or less straight West-East line, passes all touristic highlights of Poznań, among others the 58 central square of Poznań, Rynek and Rondo Środka. This tourist trail ends at the medieval little Church of St. John of Jerusalem Outside the Walls near Lake Malta. The quiet northern shore of this 59 Jezioro Maltańskie offers interesting views of the many sports accommodations on and around the lake and guides the E11 rambler to Krańcowa/60 Nowe Zoo and the start of the well-marked but curving Cistercian bicycle track (black monks on a white field or simple black stripes). Its many curves lead around the zoo, through 61 Poznań-Antoninek to the last residential area of Poznań, 62 Zieliniec. Lodgings and buses back to town are found just across the border of the city in 63 Gruszczyn (35 km). For this part of the track, a detailed plan of the city is recommendable. Free street maps of the center of Poznań and leaflets with information about the Royal-Imperial Route are found in many hotel lobbies and in the tourist information centers.

Poznań-Zieliniec - Gniezno (55 km)

Crossing the main road in Gruszczyn, E11 goes straight, now following a different bicycle trail, which is marked with a black stripe on a white square (the Cistercian route, by the way, turns left here and ends after two kilometers at the railway station of Kobylnica, although Map N-33-131/132 suggests that it continues straight to Pobiedziska.) E11 passes over a tar road through a nondescript area of small businesses and workshops related to agriculture until, just before the little village of Pomo (not shown on map N-33-131/132), it turns left and immediately right again into a sandy forest road. This spot is marked by a stone pillar indicating various hiking and biking trails.

Having ventured into the forest for 2 or 3 kilometers, you reach a crossing of sandy roads where a hiking trail marked white-green-white comes from the left. E11 and the black bicycle trail turn right to follow the green trail over several kilometers and across a paved road, until finally all black or green markings disappear. Here you should follow white-blue-white markings which, after another kilometer, turn out to mark the same trail as the green hiking and black biking routes. The scale of the topo-map, 1:100,000, does not allow to display all these details, so that a good sense of direction (assisted by a compass and sunny weather) is required.

The combined blue, green and black routes reach a second tar road, which they follow to the left (north) over a few hundred meters. The green and black signs are nowhere to be seen, but the blue trail turns right into a sandy forest path and the map indicates that this is E11. After about a kilometer, the markings leave the path and invite the rambler to find his steps among the trees. The blue stripes are now corroborated by green stripes (both on a white square) and are convincingly frequent, so that it is quite frustrating to learn that both routes, after splitting up, die somewhere in the forest and the dunes. Romantic ramblers may be reminded of Hansel and Gretel and start searching for the edible house of the bad witch, but in earnest, there seems to be no other solution than to go back to the tar road and follow it to the right (north) to the township of Pobiedziska, where E11 is found back.

Skansen near Pobiedziska shows many historical buildings of the region in miniature

The stretch between Pobiedziska and Gniezno is poorly documented. The only known source is a big map of the area, placed on the central square near the main church of Trzemeszno, a township further down E11. In Pobiedziska, a clearly marked trail guides hikers and bikers to the local railway station, but E11 and two bicycle trails follow, unmarked, a different street. This is the ulica Gnieźnieńska at the left of the church on the central square of Pobiedziska. After a kilometer the road and the routes cross the railway. In Glówna, bicycle trail #12 turns left, but E11 proceeds along an unnumbered bicycle trail, also marked black, to the village of Węglewo. E11 and the unnumbered bicycle route make two right turns in Węglewo and a left turn just outside, to continue on a stony dirt road.

Five hundred meters before the dangerously busy main road #5 is reached (don't put your hopes on signs indicating that meals or drinks might be served), in the long-stretched village of Moraczewo, E11 and the bicycle route curve left toward Lednogóra where white-red-white markings join the trail. This is from now on the colour of E11 over more than 100 km. From the church in the little village with scattered houses, it is about 2 km to the main road #5, which is followed to the left over a newly paved footpath along a swampy lake. After another kilometer on this path, a crossing in the main road is reached. A huge red neon sign draws attention to a motel ahead on the main road; a humble signpost points to the youth hostel of Dziekanowice to the left; but E11 turns right to cross the main road and follow a tar road to the South. At the crossing a road sign says that it is now 22.2 km to Gniezno.

The tar road and E11 reach the railway track and follow it to the left, but where the tar road crosses the rails, E11 goes straight on a stony dirt road parallel to the railway. There are no markings here; the first white-red-white stripes are found just before the station of Fałkowo, where E11 turns right across the tracks into the township. Fałkowo is crossed at full length until you reach a motorway (in September 2011, the road was still under construction and a new routing of E11 had not been established. Please add new information here.) After Leśniewo scarce white-red-white signs can be found again, leading the aware and persistent rambler to Gniezno.

Gniezno was the first capital of Poland, way back in the Middle Ages, but it is now dreaming away as a provincial town. Old and beautiful houses and other buildings around the central square testify of an interesting past, whilst decaying factories refer to the recent communist past. The university offers the most lively corner of the town. The white-red-white marks of E11 lead along the most interesting churches, museums and other sites, and finally to the railway station.

The routing of E11 in this section can be summarized as: Poznań-Zieliniec (bicycle track marked with a black Cistercian on a white square) - Gruszczyn (1 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 64 Uzarzewo - 65 Biskupice - Rez. Jezinowo Dębiniec (green) - Rez. Drazynek (blue) - forest near Kapalice (no markings) - 66 Pobiedziska (22 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 67 Glówna - 68 Węglewo - 69 Moraczewo - 70 Lednogóra (red) - 71 crossing near Dziekanowice (33 km) - 72 Fałkowo - 73 Leśniewo - 74 Pierzyska - 75 Wożniki - 76 Gniezno (55 km).

Gniezno - Toruń (136 km)

Mogilno's Benedict monastery

A few signs in front of the railway station of Gniezno indicate distances along the red-marked trail that is E11. The 40 km to Mogilno are correct, but the distance to Kruszwica is severely exaggerated. The trail follows the road parallel to the tracks to the Northeast and turns then right into a tunnel under the railway. After another right turn, it passes through a modern industrial area, older residential quarters and a surprisingly wild patch of forest. The red markings lead through open agrarian land to the long-stretched industrial village of Trzemeszno. The trail passes in front of the railway station, crosses the tracks a little further, and reaches Mogilno via the village of Wydartowo.

The maps needed for this section are N-33-131/132, N-34-121/122, N-34-109/110 and N-34-97/98. E11 is not mentioned on these maps, but the red marked trails are partially covered, namely from Gniezno to Trzemeszno. From Trzemeszno to Strzelno, the E11 is shown on a locally published topographical map Mogilno na Szlaku Piastowskim, ed. Artem, Witkowo, 1:50 000, ISBN 8391396967 . The precise course of E11 in this section is: Gniezno (red) -Pławnik - 77 Kędzierzyn - 78 Nowa Wieś Niechanowska - 79 Krzyżówka - 80 Miaty - 81 Trzemeszno (23 km) - 82 Niewolno - 83 Folusz - 84 Wydartowo - 85 Duszno - 86 Izdby - 87 Gozdawa - 88 Wyrobki - 89 Mogilno (41 km)

The Column of virtues in Church of the Holy Trinity at Strzelno

The white-red-white stripes die out in Mogilno. E11, now invisible, turns right in the little park around the lake, not far from the railway station, and immediately right again, to follow the waterside toward the medieval Benedictine monastery. E11 turns left (east) along a busy narrow road to Bystrzyca, where it turns into a backstreet to Olsza. The lengthy village street of Podgaj and Kawka delivers the rambler at the lonely motel of Goryszewo Kwieciszewo. The exact routing in this part of the trail is: Mogilno - 90 Bystrzyca - 91 Olsza - 92 Goruszewo - 93 Kwieciszewo (51 km).

Here, the first white-red-white stripes since Mogilno are found. These fail to mark where E11 leaves the main road and hops to a dirt road running parallel to the main road, a few hundred meters to the South. The dirt road is scarcely marked until the entrance of a forest; then the marking activities have stopped completely. Ramblers who go straight through the wood, find red markings at the other side. E11 passes through Jeziorki and follows a sandy dirt road to Strzelno (the hotel indicated on maps in this town has shut its doors many years ago). After Strzelno, a Polish Way of St. James follows more or less the same route as the E11, so that the yellow and blue shells yield an alternative marking. E11 and the Way of St. James pass the attractive baroque church of Strzelno and the nearby village of Starczewo and, via Ksiaż, reach Polanowice. In this soviet-industrial village two rusty signs with white-red-white stripes are found, which still clearly indicate E11 (200 km after the previous E11 sign!) A rustic tree lane brings the rambler to Kruszwica, a provincial town with some interesting churches. The details of E11's course in this paragraph are: Kwieciszewo - 94 Jeziorki - 95 Strzelno (both red and Way of St. James) - 96 Starczewo - 97 Ksiaż - 98 Polanowice - 99 Lagiewniki - 1 Kruszwica (72 km).

Kruszwica shows no clue where E11 and the Way of St. James continue. Gorges invites to look for a trail marked blue, but the only blue trail to be found makes a short circuit through a suburb of Kruszwica. A better bet is to follow the busy main road to the North, which is marked with the shells of St.James. After 7 km, near Łojewo, one may take a quiet asphalt road to the skewed left, soon unpaved and marked blue. The blue signs lead finally through long-stretched suburbs to the city center of Inowrocław. The part of E11 in this paragraph runs: Kruszwica (Way of St. James shells) - 2 Szarlej - 3 Łojewo (blue) - 4 Szymborze - 5 Inowrocław (87 km).

Inowrocław's saline towers were used to mine and refine salt

Near the railway station of Inowrocław, a torn map of the city is found, which indicates where the red-marked E11 leaves the town. At a few points in town one still finds the white-red-white stripes. No markings whatsoever have survived in the villages up to Kolonie Szadłowice, but one may follow a green-marked bicycle trail. Somewhere among its scattered farmhouses, E11 turns right into a skewed dirt road that enters a forest, passes a military site (not on the map), curves to the North and turns right after about one kilometer into a sandy road that curves to the Northeast. All the time passing through the forests of Błoto Ostrowskie, E11 follows this sandy road without curves over almost three kilometers, until it reaches a T-junction and a wooded bank. The main road turns sharp right; a minor path goes left; E11 however breaks through the wooded bank into a large piece of grassland. If one enters the field and keeps to the left, one finds the next white-red-white stripes on a lonely tree in the grassland. It is an arrow this time, pointing back to Inowrocław, but if one follows the signs in the opposite direction, one comes to the village of Wierzbiczany. After a right turn outside this village, both the red markings and the blue shells of St.James lead through agrarian land to Gniewkowo. From the railway station of Inowrocław, E11 runs (red) - 6 Jacewo - 7 Balin - 8 Slońsko - 9 Pieklo - Kolonie Szadłowice - 10 Błoto Ostrowskie - 11 Wierzbiczany - 12 Gniewkowo (106 km).

Gniewkowo's Town Hall

At the railway crossing at the entrance of Gniewkowo, the red signs turn left to the railway station, but E11, now marked blue, and the Way of St. James go straight into the center of the township. They follow a right curve and leave the town on the asphalt road towards Cierpice to the North. In spite of Gorges E11 no longer passes through Suchatówka. The trails now enter a large forest, leave the tar road after some kilometers and make a wide curve of 16 km to the village of Cierpice, the first of a chain of suburbs of Toruń. The blue signs bring the E11 rambler without problems from Cierpice to and through Mała Nieszawka, but after this village, shortly before the railway station, the trail turns left without notice, into a road plastered with concrete. The trail climbs over a dyke and reaches the river Vistula (Wisla). Here it turns right into an unpaved track, to pass a few ruins and reaches the bridge to Toruń. The blue trail ends at the PTTK office in the town centre, after running Gniewkowo (blue) - 13 Cierpice (122 km) - 14 Mała Nieszawka (130 km) - 15 Toruń (136 km).

Toruń - Brodnica (87 km)

From the PTTK office in Toruń, E11 is identical to a trail marked white-yellow-white, which leads all the way to Samborowo, 200 km to the northeast. The maps N-34-97/98, N-34-109/110 and N-34-99/100 do not mention E11, but the yellow trail that is used by E11, is shown in violet between Toruń and Golub-Dobrzyń, as well as from Pólka Duża to Brodnica.

E11 and St. James Way avoid the historical town center of Toruń and pass between city walls and river Vistula (Wisla), but it is far more interesting to cross the city center from the PTTK office by Różana, Szeroka and Wielkie Garbary to the railway station of Toruń-Miasto.

Out of town, the trails follow a main road till Fort Sobieskiego, then turns right into the forest near the river Vistula, but is forced to enter a (badly marked) suburban residential area after only two km. It is only after Kaszczorek and Złotoria that the trails pass through forest for a couple of hours. After crossing the busy motorway A10 near Brzozówka Kuyavian, you may turn right to reach a motel at 1 km. The details of this stretch are: Toruń (yellow) - 16 Kaszczobek - 17 Złotoria - 18 Brzozówka (20 km).

The Teutonic Order castle of Golub-Dobrzyń

Back at the crossing of Motorway A10 near Brzozówka, E11 turns left into an overgrown footpath and later reaches Mierzynek over a sandy road. Map N34-97/98 shows an older routing by Szembekowo. Kimdan 19 Lelitowo ga 20 Ciechocin (32 km) and again to Golub-Dobrzyń, E11 continues through a variety of natural and commercial forests along the river Drwęca, passing 21 Dulnik and Antoniewo to 22 Golub-Dobrzyń (44 km).

Map N-34-99/100 displays an erroneous course for the yellow trail until Pólka Duża (this village is not mentioned in the map). Actually, E11 leaves the twin cities without markings near the Post Office and the cemetery on National Road # 534 to Rypin. The trail turns left, to follow the river Drwęca to the North-East, and the first yellow signs are found in the forest. The trail then alternates between river side woods and agrarian settlements. Some of these remind of the composer Chopin who lived in this area and now has a museum in Szafarnia.

The river Drwęca near Brodnica

In Radziki Duże E11 turns left over a paved road with heavy lorries carrying loads from a sand quarry. It takes about an hour to reach a bridge over the Drwęca and escape from the road into the forest on the other side of the river. This sandy forest road continues till Mszano, but in a new suburb under Szabda it turns into a paved road and subsequently a boring main road leading to Brodnica, entering the city near the only hotel. The details of the course are: 23 Białkowo - 24 Szafarnia (53 km) - 25 Płonne - 26 Rodzone - 27 Tomkowo - 28 Kierz Radzikowski - 29 Radziki Duże - 30 Kupno - 31 Pólka Duża - 32 Słoszewy - 33 Mszano - 34 Szabda - 35 Brodnica (87 km).

Brodnica - Olsztyn (237 km)

Maps N-34-99/100, N-34-87/88, N-34-89/90 and N-34-77/78 do not mention E11, but show the underlying regional trails in the correct color (yellow being replaced by violet), with one exception: no trail is shown between Marianowo and Ostrowite.

A lake in the Jezioro Zbiczno park

E11 and St. James Way leave Brodnica well-marked, but avoiding the nice but neglected old city centre. The trails follow Motorway A15 and an abandoned railway track into forest, and meet the A15 again near the bridges of Tama Brodzka. Right after the bridge, the trails turn left into a small paved forest lane leading to Bachotek, where they split. The St. James Way offers a 24 km shorter option by Nowe Miasto Lubawskie ga Radomno. E11 makes a few curves through the nature conservation area of Zbiczno lake and meets a trail marked green. Here the yellow signs are missing, but the green signs must be followed to the North until a paved road. The asphalt is followed to the East over about one kilometer between two lakes. Here the green trail and the yellow-marked E11 split up. (The green trail offers another short alternative for E11. It enters some of the most gratifying and adventurous pieces of wild nature in the area, reducing the distance by about 20 km.) E11 makes an almost full circle through rather dull woods and open land, passing twice near the tourist resort of Ciche and turning West to Górale, then North to the railway station of Ostrowite, and finally East.

The correct routing along the trails in various colors is: Brodnica (yellow) - Tama Brodzka (7 km) - 36 Bachotek (13 km) - Zbiczno lake - 37 Leśniczówka Rytebłota (23 km) (lodgings may be found near Ciche at 2 km) - 38 Górale - 39 Wonka (39 km) - 40 Ostrowite - 41 railway station of Ostrowite - 42 Łakorek (50 km, lodgings may be found again in Ciche, by following the paved road to the South over 4 km).

From Ciche one need not turn back to Łakorek by the paved road; the green-marked trail mentioned before offers a sensational alternative (pick it up in the forest East of Ciche). From the crossing of the green trail with E11, the now yellow-marked E11 continues to the East; through wood it goes to Sluzka, then through open agrarian land to the remarkable church ofGryżliny}}. A new routing carries E11 to Radomno, where it unites with the St. James Way. Both turn North at the eastern side of a string of lakes to reach Iława amidst rail tracks. In detail, E11 runs from the crossing with the green trail (yellow) - 43 Sluzka - 44 Skarlin - 45 Lekarty - 46 Gryźliny - 47 Radomno (73 km) - 48 Katarzynki - 49 Iława (85 km)

The trails pass the modern center of the city, which was heavily destroyed in the Second World War (first by the German Army, then by the Russian Red Army), and continue North through long-stretched Szalkowo, a water sports resort. E11 continues on a paved road between fields to Wiewiórka, then enters wooded land to reach the railway station of Samborowo. In detail: Iława - 50 Szałkowo (91 km) - Wiewiórka - 51 Tynwałd (99 km) - 52 Frednowy - 53 Wiewiórka - 54 Samborowo (112 km).

At the railway station of Samborowo, a blue-marked section of E11 to Waplewo, passing the historical site of Battle of Grunwald begins. Right after the start it is difficult to find: in the village of Samborowo it turns unexpectedly right, along the main road, to take the second bridge to the left and follow an old railway track over 9 km. Where it reaches a lone roadside cafe, E11 follows a paved road to the left, then another one toward long-stretched Pietrzwałd and the forests around Wysoka Wieś. There is a cheap hostel in Pietrzwałd with no visible signpost, while various luxury places can easily be found in Wysoka Wieś. Samborowo (112 km) (blue) - 55 Turznica - 56 Gruda - 57 Naprom - 58 Pietrzwałd (129 km) - 59 Wysoka Wieś (132 km).

The battle of Grunwald is reenacted every year for a huge audience

A variety of wild and tamed nature (forest, wood, neglected fields, wasteland and farmland) decorates the trail past Grunwald to Waplewo. This Grunwald is the most important national site of the Polish people: it commemorates a medieval battle in which the Polish defeated an army of the German Knights. The trail is sometimes difficult to follow, as markings are scarce and the path may be overgrown, so good sense for direction and a compass are required. The villages along this part of E11 are Wysoka Wieś - 60 Dylewo - 61 Marcinkowo - 62 Samin - 63 Grunwald (156 km) - 64 Ulnowo - 65 Lubianek - 66 Sitno - 67 Waplewo.

The wetland forest of Las Warminski

After Waplewo, the scenery changes radically: open land makes place for wood, then forest. Two natural parks protect a great number of rare species (plants, mammals, birds and insects) and justify the large detour that E11 makes to the South before turning North. After Maróz there is only one place where one can find a bed: the "agroturystyka" in Brzeżno Łyńskie of a Polish lady who speaks English, French, German and Russian. To begin the 25 km long stretch through the Las Warminski natural reserve from here is a feast, which is regrettably disturbed by the extended apartment buildings and city motorways of Olsztyn. This section of E11 passes Waplewo - 68 railway station of Waplewo (black) - 69 Maróz junction (183 km; lodgings in Maróz at 1 km) - 70 Żelazno (yellow) - 71 Łyński Młyn (green) - 72 Orłowo - 73 Likusy - 74 Brzeżno Łyńskie (203 km) - 75 Kurki - 76 Las Warminski - 77 Ruś - 78 Bartążek - 79 Jaroty (232 km) - 80 Olsztyn (237 km).

Olsztyn - Gołdap (243 km)

Maps N-34-77/78, N-34-65/66, N-34-67/68 va N-34-69/70 do not mention E11, but display the underlying regional trails in the colors with which they are marked (yellow shown as violet). Exception: the stretch from Lidzbark Warmiński ga Kętrzyn is not shown in the maps. Part of this, however, is shown in blue on a detailed map of eastern Masuria that can be acquired locally: PPWK/Copernicus: Grosse Masurische Seen 1:100 000, ISBN 9788376970035 .

Olsztyn has a most interesting historical city centre that to a large extent has been restored. The museums and shops invite to a day of rest, before one sets out to follow E11 on the Copernicus Path. Its red markings lead from the PTTK office to the North of the city and under a huge railway viaduct. The trail follows the western bank of the river Lyna, but the eastern bank offers a number of attractions, including a canopy walk and a rope bridge over the river. After the Smętka bridge the city noises are no longer heard and the trail becomes a quiet footpath through river bank wood. The village of Dywity used to be on the trail, but is now passed at a distance. Wood dominates until the rural settlement of Swobodna; fields and pastures follow, while E11 and the St. James Way pass the pilgrim's hostel of Głotowo and the provincial town of Dobre Miasto. The details of the routing are: Olsztyn (red) - Os Wojska - 81 Braswald - 82 Barkweda - Strusiolandia (18 km) - 83 Cerkiewnik - 84 L. Chmury - 85 Swobodna - 86 Głotowo (32 km) - 87 Dobre Miasto (37 km).

From Dobre Miasto a narrow paved road with busy traffic leads E11 Northwest through Kunik. After this village the red markings of the Copernicus Path and E11 turn right into a one-lane paved road that gives access to the bishop's palace of Smolajny. There is no doubt that the trail swarves over the clerical grounds, then crosses another paved road and enters the open fields at the other side of the road. But when, after about 1 km, it enters a marsh, all traces of markings are vanished. No path seems to continue from here, except for an overgrown cart track that leads back to the church grounds. The only way out of this maze is to go back to the paved road and take it to the left (Northeast) through the village of Smolajny up to its ending at National Motorway #51. This must then be followed over 5 km until a large parking space and rest area is reached. Here one finds the red markings again; they lead into wood and later through a puszta type of landscape, pass the lonely and almost deserted village of Wróblik to Pilnik, a residential neighbourhood of Lidzbark Warmiński. In detail: Dobre Miasto - 88 Kunik - 89 Smolajny - 90 Wróblik - Nowosady - 91 Pilnik - crossing 92 Lidzbark Warmiński (62 km).

Lidzbark Warmiński

The red-marked Copernicus Path turns left at this point, but this is not where the E11 rambler should go. It is tempting to go straight to the vast town centre and find a bed, but the E11 turns right, leaving the town again, it seems, to follow the black markings of a local trail that joins the river Lyna and follows its meandering valley. For some obscure reason this walk avoids most of the medieval beauties of the town and passes along some apartment buildings from the communist era to the railway station. For those who stick to the precise course of E11, a second deception follows after the uninteresting railway station: A trail marked blue takes them back along the same apartment buildings to the entry of the Lyna valley, allows a view of the Knights' Castle and then leaves the town. It is therefore advisable to spend a day in Lidzbark Warmiński to visit the many remnants of medieval Christian Knighthood.

The blue trail will carry E11 over 69 km to Kętrzyn, but sets out by visiting a war cemetery from the First World War. Straight East it goes then to the monastery of Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński), where pilgrims on the St. James' Way and other ramblers may find a simple meal and a bed. The blue trail continues through open land and over the long main street of Sulowo to charming Bisztynek, another town reminiscent of the medieval German Knights. An old railway track carries E11 out of town to the East and on a sandy road more or less parallel to the old track, the extended village of Sątopy-Samulewo is reached. E11 goes straight, past a new settlement of apartment blocks and to an older settlement where it turns right. The paved road becomes a gravel road, the gravel makes place for sand, then grass, and after a while the rambler must find a thorny way by going straight and noticing the occasional blue mark. When a paved road is reached, E11 follows it to the left and finally reaches the next medieval town, Reszel which also offers an unusual rich variety of dishes. The townships passed are Lidzbark Warmiński - 93 Sarnowo - 94 Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński) (80 km) - 95 Kiwity (85 km) - 96 Rokitnik (88 km; hotel at 1 km) - 97 Sulowo - 98 Bisztynek (94 km) - 99 Nowe Wieś Reszelska - 1 Sątopy-Samulewo - 2 Troksy - 3 Biel - 4 Czarnowiec - 5 Reszel (114 km).

Reszel's Teutonic castle with the church in the background

Reszel is also left over an old railway track, but E11 soon turns right (South) toward the popular pilgrimage church of Święta Lipka. It offers beds in a pilgrim house and accommodation in hotels for every budget, and the company of bus loads of tourists. After this busy beehive, E11 finds the silence of a detour through forest and a long walk over an old railway track through fields to the industrial village of Smokowo. A feeder road brings the rambler to a main road with heavy traffic. This highway, followed to the right (East) ends up at the beginning of the long high street of Kętrzyn. This is mainly a flourishing modern provincial town, but it lodges some memories of the medieval past. It also harbors the last railway station before the ending of E11, about 300 km further. Ramblers who want to interrupt their walk in any township after Kętrzyn, will have to study the time tables in Polish of the regional bus services, instead of using www.Bahn.com in English. The places passed on this stretch are Reszel - 6 Święta Lipka (121 km) - 7 Pieckowo - 8 Smokowo - 9 Biedaszki - 10 Kętrzyn (137 km)

Near Kętrzyn was Hitler's strongest hide-away, the so-called Wolfsschanze (Wolf's Lair). As the map shows, it was a huge military complex. House No. 6 was the location of a plot by Claus von Stauffenberg and others to kill Hitler in a late stage of World War II. Once the troops of the Red Army had conquered the place, they tried to destroy it with tons of dynamite, but large ruins can still be seen and visited.

After Kętrzyn follow 11 Kruszewiec - 12 Karolewo - 13 Czerniki - Szaniec - 14 Parcz (black) - 15 Jankowo - 16 Skrzypy (red) - 17 Pilwa - 18 Radzieje (155 km) - 19 Łabapa - 20 Sztynort (black) - 21 Sklodowo - Kolonie Harsz - 22 Harsz (169 km) - 23 Okowizna - 24 Ogonki (176 km) (blue) - 25 Pozezdrze (182 km) - 26 Sapieniec - 27 Przytuły - 28 Wilkus - 29 Jasieńczyk - 30 Jasieniec (193 km) (lodgings will be found in Jeziorowski, 2 km) (green) - 31 Żabinka - 32 L. Diabla Gora - Rogonie - 33 L. Leśny Zakątek (210 km) - 34 Czerwony Dwór - L. Olszanka - 35 Jabłonowo - 36 Golubie Wężewskie - 37 Wilkasy - 38 Kamionki - 39 Pietrasze - 40 Suczki - 41 Osiedłe - 42 Gołdap (243 km).

Gołdap - Lithuanian border (144 km)

In Gołdap, E11 offers a choice between a trail marked white-green-white that comes very close to the Russian border, or a white-red-white trail along the main road to the East. Both trails meet again after 31 km in Stanczyki. The green trail passes through uninhabited woodland and should not be recommended to ramblers with a weak sense of orientation, or those who fear Russian red tape when crossing the border unintentionally and without visa. That one reaches the Russian border before Litva, may be surprising to those who are not aware that Rossiya has an exclave around Kaliningrad, formerly German Königsberg.

For this section, the rambler will need maps N-34-69/70 and N-34-71/7. N-34-57 / 58 xaritasi faqat Rossiya chegarasi bo'ylab yashil yo'l uchun kerak (yomon!), Goldap (yashil) - 43 Botkuny - 44 Yurkiski - Xaynov - 45 Bledziski - 46 Stankziki (31 km). Qizil muqobil Goldap (qizil) - L. Kumiacie - Botkuny - Jurkiszki - Galviyecje (12 km) - Plyuskijmy - Budvisi - Stachki (31 km).

Stachkiki dan marshrut quyidagicha: Stachki (qizil) - 47 Maciejowieta (Goldapdan 32 km) - 48 Poblidzi - 49 Rakovek (sariq) - 50 Klaypedka - 51 Kalpeda - 52 Dziadovek (qizil) - 53 Dziervani (ko'k) - 54 Smolniki (50 km) (yashil) - 55 Ucopuchowon - 56 Udziejek - 57 Czajewszzyzna (58 km) - 58 Kazimyerovka - 59 Jeleniewo (62 km) - 60 Krzemianka (64 km) - o'tish yo'li № 8 (= E 67) magistral yo'li bilan 61 Svaxariya (qora) - 62 Folwarkga qarang (88 km) (yashil) - 63 Magdalena - 64 Czerwony Folwark - 65 Rosochaty Rog - Węzzał (ko'k) - 66 Mackova Ruda - 67 Wysoki Most (ko'prik) - 68 Jeziorki - 69 Karolin - 70 Virsni - 71 Gibi (116 km) (turar joy Seyni 7 km) (qizil) - 72 Zelva - 73 Berżniki - 74 Dvorcysko - J.Szłabinki (136 km) (turar joy.) Seyni, Qizil izdan 5 km uzoqlikda) (qora) - 75 Ogrodniki chegara stantsiyasi (144 km).

Keyingisi

E11 Polsha-Litva chegara postida Ogrodnikidan 3 km uzoqlikda tugaydi. Eng yaqin turar joylar Seyni, Asosiy yo'l bo'ylab 11 km yoki orqada qora izdan, so'ngra qizil izdan o'ngga qarab 13 km. Bunga kirishganlar Litva mehmonxonani topishi mumkin Lazdijaj. Ikkala shaharda ham poezd aloqasi yo'q; poezdga uyga yoki aeroportga borish uchun qizil yo'ldan yurish mumkin Seyni Pussk yaqinidagi Trakiszki temir yo'l stantsiyasiga 25 km dan ortiq. Shuningdek, Polshaning temir yo'l stantsiyalari mavjud Suvalki va Litva shahri Sestokay. Uzoq kutishga tayyor bo'ling; Bu joylardan har ikki yo'nalishda faqat bitta poezd bor ekan, har kuni uchta poezdni taklif qiladigan Suvalki bundan mustasno Belostok. Siz so'nggi jadvallarni tekshirishingiz mumkin Bahn.com.

Camino Lituano Seynidan boshlanadi va shimol tomon Latviya tomon olib boradi. Camino Lituano g'oyasini kengaytiradi Jeymsning yo'li Litvaga va E11 chegarasidan tashqariga chiqish uchun yaxshi manba bo'lishi mumkin.

Baltica orqali muqobil bo'lishi mumkin. Sejnidan Balticaning bir qismi bo'lgan 8-avtomagistral bo'ylab Sypliski tomon yo'l (651) bor, muqobil ravishda siz Litva tomonga o'tishingiz, Lazdijayga va 134 va 131-sonli mahalliy yo'llar bo'ylab Kalvariyaga borishingiz va yo'lga qo'shilishingiz mumkin. Mana. Ushbu marshrut asosan haydovchilar uchun mo'ljallangan bo'lsa-da, ehtimol siz piyoda piyoda ketayotgandek mashina olib kelmagan bo'lsangiz ham, magistral yo'llar yonida yurish mumkin. Velosipedda harakatlanish xavfli bo'lsa ham, nazariy jihatdan ham mumkin. Taxminan 800 km va uchta Boltiqbo'yi mamlakatlaridan keyin siz bo'lasiz Tallin.

Ushbu yo'nalish E11 piyoda yurish yo'li a foydalanish mumkin maqola. U erga qanday etib borishni tushuntiradi va yo'ldagi barcha muhim fikrlarga to'xtaladi. Sarguzasht odam ushbu maqoladan foydalanishi mumkin, ammo iltimos, sahifani tahrirlash orqali uni yaxshilang.